Climbs 60
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces W
Theo Elmer (feeko) busting Shining Heart (F7c), Coastguard North © Richard Horn
Crag features
The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal approaches, slippery boulders and the constant accompaniment of the sea close by.
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep, powerful and hard climbs, many in the high 7s. It is also the setting for Portland's hardest route - Vespasian at 8b.
Approach notes
Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory. The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.
No Access Issues
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the area's hardest route at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.
| if you dont want to pay the £6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help La benya - 01/Aug/10 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers sam.sam.sam.ferguson and Marti999