UKC

Climbs 60
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces W

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Theo Elmer (feeko) busting Shining Heart (F7c), Coastguard North © Richard Horn

Crag features

The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal approaches, slippery boulders and the constant accompaniment of the sea close by.

Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep, powerful and hard climbs, many in the high 7s. It is also the setting for Portland's hardest route - Vespasian at 8b.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory. The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North.

if you dont want to pay the 6!!! to park at the bill, its not much more of a walk to come from the blacknor/ battleship parking on the road. and the path suffers from serious erosion, its very steep and wont be to everyones taste. a rope is there to help
La benya - 01/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

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