Climbs 101
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W
Xavier's wall area on Portland last weekend © tony4433
Crag features
The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a wealth of excellent routes set in a remote and beautiful environment. Unlike much of the rest of the west coast of Portland, the Coastguard Cliffs have an authentic sea-cliff feel about them, with all that this entails - tidal approaches, slippery boulders and the constant accompaniment of the sea close by.
Coastguard South offers more in the mid-grades, including the very popular Xavier's Wall Area - home to a great spread of mid-grade routes. The rock at both the North and South Cliffs is some of the best on the Isle, and is furnished with some fantastic flowstone-sheets.
Approach notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island and park at the Portland Bill car park (fee). Walk back up the road, and, just after the Pulpit Inn, take a minor road on the left. As the road starts to level out, just before the Coastwatch lookout, go left and down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (rope often in place - take care). The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South, continue down the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over huge boulders to a level platform beyond.
No Access Issues
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the area's hardest route at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.
| One of those crags where clipstick is v handy. High first bolts. Owen W-G - 23/Aug/21 |
|
| nesting bird watchers?! Perryman - 22/Apr/11 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers sam.sam.sam.ferguson and Marti999