Rockfax Description
200m. A fine route with good rock and outstanding outlook, taking a line up the centre of the larger, slabbier, left side of the buttress. The main difficulties are concentrated in the first half. Start well up and left from a tongue of easy-angled rock in the centre left of the buttress (left of a huge dirty groove).
1. 45m 5a Climb up onto a tiny shoulder, pull over onto a slab, then trend up slightly rightwards aiming for a prominent crack cutting through overhangs. Belay in a small alcove left of the crack itself.
2. 40m 5c Traverse delicately right into the crack, then follow this with sustained interest to a ledge.3. 45m 5a Continue directly up, then trend right across an unprotected slab to gain a stepped right-trending groove.
4, 5. 70m 4c The groove to the top.
FA P.Benson, G.Robertson, 17 Jun 2007 © Rockfax
Skye Rock , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 3* sa Chuilthionn as t-Samhradh
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Staffin Slips)