An excellent climb with solid rock and varied climbing. The chimney sections are particularly memorable and not only for their lack of gear! A very worthwhile excursion, with a straightforward descent to end the day with.
Start directly under the main arete just right of a clump of bushes some 30m up the face.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the grassy left-trending crack/ramp on good holds. Continue over a small chossy ledge, then climb onto a grassy ledge, continue direct, don't go too far left, then climb direct towards the bushes above. Belay on a pine tree in the bushes on the left.
2) V, 40m. Climb the slab above heading for a dead tree. Belay just behind and to the left of the dead tree.
3) IV, 40m. Traverse the grassy ledge leftwards to below a short corner topped by an overhang. Climb the wall just right of the chimney traversing right under the roof. Belay just above this on a small ledge with cement ring.
4) IV+ 30m. Climb direct, keeping about 7m from the big yellow wall on the left, on good rock over easy ground, past a cement ring. Then start trending leftwards over black rock to get established in the main corner proper. Cramped climbing on good holds leads to a stance in a niche underneath an overhanging corner.
5) V+, 40m. Leave the belay with an awkward move to get established, then continue up the corner. Where the corner splits into two cracks, the right is the easier of the two (V), the left provides a harder variant (VI-) with excellent climbing. Belay on a cemented ring as you top out of the corner past a tree on a large ledge.
6) III, 40m. Continue up the ledge to take a right-trending ramp, leading into a right-trending shallow chimney to a rocky knob, ignoring the large chimney on the left.
7) IV-, 50m. Climb direct over grey slabs on really good holds. Trend slightly rightwards to reach a good ledge just left of the arete with another cemented ring belay.
8) III+, 50m. Head slightly leftwards over more grey slabs and then to a large ledge with another cemented ring.
9) I, 20m. Traverse left for 15m, past a large chimney on the right, to a cemented ring.
10) V+ 15m. Climb direct then diagonally rightwards over black-streaked rock to reach a niche with a summit book.
11) V+, 10m. From the niche, step left to climb an orange wall with jugs and a layback crimp. Then traverse right passing above the niche to reach a cemented ring.
12) IV, 30m. Climb the loose chimney-gully with an awkward move at three-quarters height to exit onto the grassy top. © Rockfax
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