The easiest route on the face. Despite the poorer quality of rock midway through the route and the somewhat discontinuous nature, the upper pitches feature some lovely climbing.
Start on the right-hand side of the pyramid, by a cemented ring, at the left edge of a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully.
1) III+, 30m. Ascend the ramp to the right easily following the more solid rock to a comfortable stance.
2) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line, overcoming a short vertical section, ignoring red markers up a crack (harder variant). Continue to reach the arete.
3) IV, 40m. Reach the arete and follow this for a short way. Climb poor rock just right of the arete then move back left of the arete onto easier ground and a good stance below a slab.
4) IV, 40m. Climb the slab direct to reach a small ledge right on the edge of the arete.
5) III+, 30m. Climb the arete on excellent rock to reach a red painted arrow.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the wall above with enjoyable climbing, then follow the grassy ridge just left of the arete.
7) III, 35m. Climb a short slab to reach a vegetated ledge. Via en Coulisse joins here. Continue past the bolt belay and keep left of the arete then follow a ramp left to a good stance.
8) IV, 40m. Climb an enjoyable corner to the next ledge, then continue direct up a corner-crack. Climb excellent rock direct to a comfortable belay.
9) IV-, 30m. Continue with a final few moves of enjoyable climbing to exit onto a ledge near the via ferrata cable and just below the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A very loose route with a good 4b move up a small headwall at about half hight.
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