UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces S

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Little John is attracted. © andybirtwistle

Crag features

As with all of the quarries round here access is officially not allowed.

Generally good rock, routes up to 28m long, a secluded sunny venue with short access. Some routes can be dusty after rain, but generally does not detract from the climbing.

Approach notes

Leave Wirksworth on the Cromford Road. Turn left into Wirksworth Industrial Centre (Ravenstor Road), and at a mini-roundabout turn right - to a gate. The entrance is just in front, amongst some trees. The quarry is part of the National Stone Centre.

Restricted Access

The National Stone Centre, which encompasses a number of quarries of interest to climbers is in the process of changing ownership to the Institute of Quarrying. This has brought with it the opportunity to revisit access for climbers, which in the past has had to be under the radar. Fortunately, thanks to an open and progressive attitude to access by the Institute of Quarrying, they are keen to welcome responsible climbers onto the site, subject to the below:

  • As with any crag, climbers accessing the quarries within the National Stone Centre do so at their own risk
  • All existing routes in these quarries are now accessible for climbers, but please pause any further development (rock scaling, bolting or vegetation removal) for the time being until a full agreement for the future can be made with the Institute of Quarrying
  • Please use the formal car parks, pay for parking and use the café and facilities on site – visitor payments help to fund the running of the site as somewhere open to the public and climbers
We were asked to leave today - something to do with the quarry being part of an SSSI. Never happened before but I suppose that there is a first time for everything!
roger whetton - 24/Oct/18
Got kicked out of the quarry today due to "dynamite being used in the creation of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Got kicked off due to "dynamite being used in the making of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around.
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Shouldn't it be Colehill Quarry?
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
Reminiscent of a sea cliff? Maybe needs reassessing as its cleaned up a lot recently.Good southern alternative to Horseshoe without the polish:)
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
The quarry is in really good shape and access really easy. No hassle from anybody and even had a few walkers stop and watch a couple of climbs.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
some rock fall including a bolt has happened on destitution on threedonia 6b+
goodboy - 26/Mar/12
P.S. Routes are well bolted here. Bolts next to cruxes and no random run-outs. Which is nice.
Fiend - 08/May/09
Climbed here May 2009, knowing full well access is banned, but also heeding the comment below and my partner's suggestion that the access situation wasn't that bad. As below, no warning signs and no interference despite a few teams at the quarry. Also heard that negotiations have fizzled out and only one person at the Stone Centre had any serious objections to climbing. Anyway, it's an okay evening venue, not one of the better lime sport quarries, but still some fun routes and a good workout.
Fiend - 07/May/09
Climbed here July 2008 , not knowing access is banned. There are no signs up anywhere and you can just walk in. It was a damp weekday evening and we were pretty discrete. It looks like a lot of the bolts have recently been replaced and there has been some removal of loose rock. A good local venue and worth a visit if you are in the area.
Pilch - 18/Jul/08
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