Loading Notifications...

Climbs 67
Rocktype Culm

Faces S

View Stats

Dan on Crimtyphon © sarahkaye

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route. Crimtyphon is the route of the crag and is very much still worth doing after the rockfalls of 2013/14. Good solid rock and plentify belays if cams are used before topping out.

Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.

The metal abseil stakes are seriously corroded and not safe for use, and the ridge to the tower is extremely loose.

Approach notes

Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Out of print:
The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Mark Kemball