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Climbs 36
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 381m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Nathan Lee preparing for the last slap on Conie Lamiche © nathanlee

Crag features

A small Limestone outcrop in a sheltered dale that has been developed mainly by Jon Fullwood and Ned Feehally. Despite first appearances the rock is solid and it is well worth a visit if operating at font 7A or above.

Approach notes

There are ongoing access issue at Connie’s Dale which can be summarised as follows:

- The landowner still objects to climbers at the crag

- The crag is on CROW land so we have a right to be there

- The BMC no longer supports a voluntary ban

- The landowner appears to be a gnarly character and has behaved in a threatening way to climber. Proceed with due caution

- DO NOT APPROACH FROM PEAK FOREST VIA THE NORMAL APPROACH. Because: A -  you may meet the landowner. B - crossing walls and fences is to be avoided and is probably illegal. C - while the current pandemic is a live issue it's best to avoid parking in quiet villages and approaching past dwellings, where other options exist

- If you wish to visit the crag please come in either from the NW via footpaths from the entrance to Eldon Quarry (see image) on the Castleton to Sparrow Pit road; or through Oxlow Rake east of Peak Forest.

 

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info. There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

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