First multi-pitch lead.... on Swanage jugs..... Wall Street HS 4b. © si cooke
Cormorant Ledge is an extensive section of crag with a small number of good low and mid-grade lines, including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access to either end of the area by abseil, and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station.
Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Turn left and follow the path to just past the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right, down a steep hillside, to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the fence.
From the rickety stile, follow a fence line left to a wall. Continue along the fence line and cross the fence at the fourth wooden stile (about 150m from the wall). Drop down into a small quarry. An abseil stake is in the floor of the quarry 25m from where the path enters.
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
|The ab is loose but can be backed up with gear in the rocks behind. It is however not above Quality Street. You will find yourself more on the line of Oran which will get you in trouble if the tide is at all high or the sea rough. I ab'ed in, only to find the end of my rope in the sea and no ledge below me, the rope was washed under a rock and got stuck (I had to but 5m off the end). |
Ed.Laver - 14/Sep/21
|new stake in place (09/08/2009)|
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
|the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)|
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09
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