170m, 7 pitches.
The route starts with the first pitch of the Cassin route. Then follows a line of bolts. There are bolts every 4 meters, so a lot of hard moves are obligatory.
P1 (in common with the Cassin) IV+ UIAA
P2 6b, slab with small holds
P3 6b+, finger-crack
P4 6c, left-traverse, technical, requires decision
P5 6a (harder in my opinion), vertical wall
P6 6a (even this is a little harder in my opinion), left traverse to a corner, to a belay on the right
P7 6c/6c+, Overhanging corner, very continuos.
Here ends the route and there are 2 possibilities:
1) abseil with 3 abseil, the first one is long (more than 50m) and free-hanging
2) climb another 2 hard pitches (6c+, 6b) to reach the Anniversario route or the Saronno '87 route, and from here with 2 pitches to the top.
Climb here is possible in sunny winter days, spring and autumn but NOT recommended in summer, due to hot temperatures and the presence of stinging plants (ruta graveolens).
Marco Galli, Eugenio Pesci Sep/1986.
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