65m, 2 pitches.
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls (almost 100m before the falls). It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall.
1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 4c
2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. 5c
Very good protection.
1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 4c
2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. 5c
Very good protection.
Stephen Gallwey, Jack Bergin Jun/1991.
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Route of Interest
Emperor's Nose
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Coumshingaun)