73m, 5 pitches.
This climb is just to the left of a large rock island in the gully to the right. This island is the only one on the main face and has a tree on top.
Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress.
1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Ridiculous belay on smooth clasts.
2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left, then proceed right to a ledge.
3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left, then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess.
4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner.
The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows -
5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.
Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress.
1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Ridiculous belay on smooth clasts.
2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left, then proceed right to a ledge.
3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left, then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess.
4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner.
The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows -
5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.
Tom Woulfe, Joss Lynam 20/Jul/1969.
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