Climbs 86
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 401m a.s.l
Faces SE
A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Ideal for a short boulder/solo session. The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at, and exiting along, the large break at 2/3 height, which marks the end of the solid. The quarry contains some good problems up to V7 and the rock is good where it counts. There is potential for some hard lines, that will only to be conquered by some steel fingers. Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, and there is sometimes broken glass on the holds, so take care.
Parking is best in the layby at the top of Monks Road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.
The landowner unfortunately doesn't allow climbing. The area is close to both CROW land and a footpath, ownership is believed to be split between two farms. As ever, be responsible, discreet and avoid confrontation. Avoid during lambing time - Feb-March.
The ban on climbing here, if it is real, is best ignored. There are some decent highballs and minor lines and climbing here hurts no one. Just another attempt to limit our freedom of access to the land. Frank the Husky - 25/Jun/23 |
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