Loading Notifications...
Upload an image for this crag

Climbs ?
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Crag features

A new crag full of potential that may tempt a sport crag developer. To my knowledge this crag has had no previous climbing history, so plenty of first ascents available. The quarry can be clearly seen from Crosskeys (look dead West) just above the rugby club. There is a mixture of clean technical faces, bold overhanging wall (with an impressive 3 tier overhang) and plenty of other route potential. (and scattered boulders in places around the hill).


Approach notes

Exit the M4 at Junction 28 and follow the A467 to Crosskeys, stay on the A467 passing the new Tesco on your right until you reach the Full Moon roundabout, take the 3rd exit then take the first left turn (signposted for an industrial estate) you should see a forestry commission track immediately to your right (park here). Walk up that track for about half a mile and lookout for a footpath on your left (it is a bit overgrown and easily missed). A good transit is the lights of the rugby club below at the northern end of the pitch. Follow this track steeply up hill and you will eventually reach the crag.

Best to locate crag visually from Crosskeys before walking up. Or use GPS – grid ref ST 215 921


No guides found for this crag

What a stunning crag. The left hand side is very broken and apprears far too lose for climbing but the right side is much harder more stable rock with clean, long, non-vegetated rock, huge, overhang and easier vertical walls. The base of the quarry also holds a boulder field with boulders up to around 3 meters tall.
MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15
This crag has peregrine falcon nesting on it. People seen abseiling and climbing it in the past have been reported to police for egg collecting, be warned.
ewog - 30/Aug/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Volunteer to moderate Cox's Quarry
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]