300m, 6 pitches.
[Edit]: This route may be Shelf Route (V.Diff)... currently being investigated!
This climb is mentioned in the blue? book held in the Amadiers Hotel in Tafroute - unfortunately I cannot remember the actual name of the climb - but it was mentioned as being a 3c.
The start is over the stream and to the right of the highest and most northerly part of Oumsnat, below a very large and long open book corner/groove which is obvious from a distance. The 1st pitch climbs up to and along a thin diagonal ledge to its end then straight up over fairly steep ground with one or two awkward reaches sometimes involving spiky vegetation. 2nd pitch follows the small ridge above up to a small summit where belaying is awkward. From here downclimb a couple of meters, cross the gap and climb up the well featured twisted vertical layers of rock opposite the summit. At the end of this (3rd) pitch the rock angle shallows and potentially easy scrambling continues almost all the way up the very wide open book corner/groove to the top.
Gear is not abundant especially on the long scramble section - but can be found most often in the base of the left hand wall. The descent requires a steep scramble or abseil down a short distance onto easy ground below the main summit of the crag - alternatively for the adventurous a walk off to the east along the ridge and then down a copper stained green loose dirt/scree slope takes you to the gorge where a pleasant swim and a short abseil down a waterfall takes you back to Oumsnat (this is the same gorge Crag Q is on).
Another alternative is going over the back of the ridge and down westwards along the other stream leads you into the palm tree gorge and past the crag there instead.
This climb is mentioned in the blue? book held in the Amadiers Hotel in Tafroute - unfortunately I cannot remember the actual name of the climb - but it was mentioned as being a 3c.
The start is over the stream and to the right of the highest and most northerly part of Oumsnat, below a very large and long open book corner/groove which is obvious from a distance. The 1st pitch climbs up to and along a thin diagonal ledge to its end then straight up over fairly steep ground with one or two awkward reaches sometimes involving spiky vegetation. 2nd pitch follows the small ridge above up to a small summit where belaying is awkward. From here downclimb a couple of meters, cross the gap and climb up the well featured twisted vertical layers of rock opposite the summit. At the end of this (3rd) pitch the rock angle shallows and potentially easy scrambling continues almost all the way up the very wide open book corner/groove to the top.
Gear is not abundant especially on the long scramble section - but can be found most often in the base of the left hand wall. The descent requires a steep scramble or abseil down a short distance onto easy ground below the main summit of the crag - alternatively for the adventurous a walk off to the east along the ridge and then down a copper stained green loose dirt/scree slope takes you to the gorge where a pleasant swim and a short abseil down a waterfall takes you back to Oumsnat (this is the same gorge Crag Q is on).
Another alternative is going over the back of the ridge and down westwards along the other stream leads you into the palm tree gorge and past the crag there instead.
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Route of Interest
Always Neverland
Grade: VD ***
(The White Dome)