Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mark Glaister setting off up Delta Force (6c+) Craig Arthur © Phil Black

Crag features

The huge rampart of Craig Arthur looms impressively over the upper end of the Eglwyseg Valley. At around 40m it is by far the tallest of all the cliffs along the escarpment. The quality and length of the routes - both trad and sport - makes it a crag of national importance, with a number being multi-pitch offerings, adding a welcome dimension to the area that is otherwise dominated by shorter single-pitch climbs. The crag is mostly vertical but frequently crossed by horizontal bands of overhangs, especially in its upper reaches, making for some very exciting finishes. The rock is mainly composed of good-quality weathered white and grey sheets, seamed with some strong crack and flake lines. Some of the less frequented lines still have loose sections and can be a little vegetated. The crag's location is both spectacular and beautiful with expansive views above a base clear of vegetation. Its scree slope shelves away steeply making the exposure felt from the first moves on most routes. Many of the routes, both trad and sport, rely on fixed protection from pegs, threads and bolts although a full rack and double ropes are also required for the trad lines. A clip-stick may be useful as a number of the initial bolts on the sport climbs are fairly high.

Approach notes

Park carefully, and approach as for World's End and walk a further 50m down the road from the ford to a closed gate and a stile on the left side of the road; this marks the Offa's Dyke Pathway. Follow the paththrough the large pineforest and exit from it. Continue by following the trail alongside a rickety old fence, until after about 10 minutes, the corner of a large pine forestis reached, and the edge of Craig Arthur comes into view on the left on the hillside above. Follow the path up the scree slope to the left end of the crag. Please note that the cliffs are off bounds for long periods over the spring-summer for rare nesting birds.
There is no car by the footpath as mentioned in the Clwyd Rock guide book. The only close carpark is the one mentioned above used for Worlds end.

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Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
Clwyd Limestone (2005)
Clwyd Rock (1993)
All climbs now updated and arranged in order. A brilliant crag and a highlight of the Eglwyseg Valley.
Luke Owens - 09/Jun/12
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Luke Owens

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