UKC

Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite

Faces SW

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Chris Georg, with feet popped off on Starco (HVS 5a), Craig Buddon, Leicestershire © Chris Georg

Crag features

Possibly the nicest crag in Leicestershire. Stays clean and dry even in winter and is set amongst glourious scenery.Best routes include Virago (E1 5a***, 17m), Trepidation (E1 5b*, 17m) and Starco (HVS 5a*, 14m). All routes are of good quality, however finding gear placements can be somewhat problematical.

Approach notes

Unofficially - it would seem climbing by small numbers of people seems to be tolerated. I was up there recently, and spoke to one of the wardens who - whilst quoting the official line of not allowing climbing, didn't ask us to leave, and seemed quite happy to leave us there climbing. [Nick Ward 6/02]
Severn Trent no longer allow access to this crag. Climbing is BANNED!
Was a very nice crag, but apparantly the measures are necessary for conservation measures. [Nick Ward 4/02]

Climbing would appear to be banned, we were asked to leave by a man in uniform, who we assumed to be from Severn Trent. [David Steele 05/17]

Craig Buddon is situated at the dam end of Swithland reservoir and is visible from the weir, parking is alongside the dam itself.
Anyone visiting should be sure to descend the crag either by abseil or by walking through the woodland to the R (i.e. the reservoir side) of the crag. The slopes to the left are ecologically sensitive (Severn Trent Water is encouraging heather regeneration in the area) and should be avoided.

Guidebooks

Parked on the damn not far from the bend, climbed over the wall at the locked gate, a very small crag, not great at all in my opinion, won’t be back, not worth seeking out unless you are right there, protection is non existent on some routes, even the vs/hvs.
ipfreely - 18/Aug/20
A new green fence has been erected preventing access beyond the wall that runs towards the crag. You shouldn't need to cross that wall (and the new spiky green fence) to access the crag anyway.
Jamiewalkerjones - 31/Jul/18
Access seems a definite issue, was asked to leave by a uniformed man (presumably Severn Trent) recently.
Deema Mozayen - 08/May/17
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Paul Leader

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