UKC

Climbs 195
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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Christmas Curry, Tremadog. © John Newbiggin

Crag features

One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.

Approach notes

Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site -please spend a penny at the cafe to use the facilites (for customers only).

Owls are nesting in the tree part way up the route Axeover and (end of April) are incubating at least two young chicks -this is a histortical nest site but it's advised to avoid all the routes on this slab until the birds have fledged (end of May). 

*Note that for 2021, due to the Covid impact, the cafe and car park will not be operating.  Parking is therefore severely limited. Be extremely careful not to cause an obstruction and not to block any gates. Consider parking in laybys, either about a kilometre towards Tremadog village or about half a kilometer to the east towards Prenteg and walking in. 

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2021 - Tawny Owls are nesting in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 
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