Altitude 100m a.s.l
Christmas Curry, Tremadog. © John Newbiggin
One of the best crags in Wales, with multi-pitch routes up to 250ft. Many classic including Christmas Curry (S), One Step In The Clouds (VS 4c), The Plum (E1 5b), the unbeatable Vector (E2 5c), Void (E3 6a), Zukator (E4 6a) and of course Strawberries (E7 6b) and Dream Topping (E7 6c). Often busy with people exiled by the weather in the Pass.
Park near Eric's Caff off the A498. The crag is to the right. Finding the bottom of routes often involves jungle-bashing, so try to work out where you want to be early on. Walk off from the top if possible, and if abseiling is essential then leave a sling around the tree - don't run your rope around it (as that severely damages both).
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Owls are nesting in the tree part way up the route Axeover and (end of April) are incubating at least two young chicks -this is a histortical nest site but it's advised to avoid all the routes on this slab until the birds have fledged (end of May).
Ravens are also nesting on Neb buttress, please avoid routes on the Neb buttress, until the birds have fledged (End of May).
2022 - Parking up date- Hadfer Glaping Site are now open to climbers from 8am untill 8pm. You will need to pay via the "Just Park App". If you have a epic and are late down please email the Hadfer Campsite owner to explain.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds2021 - Tawny Owls are nesting in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
|The climb listed here as 'striptease' - vs 5a has recently suffered from a rockfall in the lower section of its first pitch. Some loose rock may remain. Be wary of further rockfall on this route
dmaldonado - 04/May/14
|After learning to climb for 4 weeks came here to climb and did shadrach through the crack (chimney) that was annoyingly difficult to get through but a good experience.
Shane Standing - 25/Oct/10
|Did Leg Slip recently - it might be a bit harder than HVS
JRG - 09/Jun/09
|i am from south wales and it was my first time at tremadog and i thought the overall grades were a bit tougher than the likes of wintours leap and shorncliff
jason morris - 18/Oct/05
|When I first started to climb I went to North Wales to get away from the crumbly limestone of the Wye valley where I live. My first climb in Tremadog was Yogi (VS) and I found it probably one of best climbs I have ever done, or certainly the best VS I have ever done. Lovely rock, and when the protection is there it is brilliant and I seem to recall a good abseil station from the top. Nice easy climbing!
Sam Trefgarne - 15/Feb/02
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