Direct version of Nemandi, bulge above the bold start then up slab and left of Nemandi upper crack.
Climb the corner/slab start (bold) of Nemandi to below a bulging overhang. Climb through this direct to the upper slab runout finish. Use some or all of two prominent pockets above and right near Nemandi upper crack. Place the only gear in Nemandi’s upper crack as it continues rightwards (possible side runners big hex/friends). A powerful awkward sequence is required to pull direct through the bulge from below to gain the upper slab either leftwards to a shallow groove and finish rightwards or more direct on the pillar using pockets, smears and very thin edges to finish past a high pocket at the top ( both bold/runout). Failure could see a poor/big fall towards ground boulders. Sound belaying judgements/gear needed.
Climb the corner/slab start (bold) of Nemandi to below a bulging overhang. Climb through this direct to the upper slab runout finish. Use some or all of two prominent pockets above and right near Nemandi upper crack. Place the only gear in Nemandi’s upper crack as it continues rightwards (possible side runners big hex/friends). A powerful awkward sequence is required to pull direct through the bulge from below to gain the upper slab either leftwards to a shallow groove and finish rightwards or more direct on the pillar using pockets, smears and very thin edges to finish past a high pocket at the top ( both bold/runout). Failure could see a poor/big fall towards ground boulders. Sound belaying judgements/gear needed.
Paul Tucker 05/May/2021.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clive King | 2 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I could find reasons to give this a grade anywhere between e2 5c and e4 6a. I did it 4 times on a shunt while cleaning it, so for on sight I am going to guess at e3 6a. Nice addition to the crag. I did find some rp”s on the face which were of psychological value. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I could find reasons to give this a grade anywhere between e2 5c and e4 6a. I did it 4 times on a shunt while cleaning it, so for on sight I am going to guess at e3 6a. Nice addition to the crag. I did find some rp”s on the face which were of psychological value. |
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