120m, 3 pitches. A classic mixed climb, one of the best of its grade in Snowdonia. An obvious winter line criss-crosses the summer route for short sections.
Climb easy ground for 30m to a small ledge with a small spike belay, about 10 metres below where the rib proper steepens.
1. 6 35m Climb turfy ground for 10m to a large ledge below where the rib proper steepens. Move left and climb the turfy groove immediately right of the subsidiary rib taken by the summer route. Make an airy step across right to a good belay ledge, as for the summer route.
2. 5 38m Climb the turfy corner around the right-hand side of the rib and step back left onto the front face (alternatively, climb the crack above the belay to the same point, as for the summer route). Continue up the crack on the front face as per the summer route to a small ledge. Step left and follow a turfy groove and ledges up the right-hand side of the rib to small stance below the final wall.
3. 7 25m Climb a turfy ramp up rightwards to below a wide crack in the steep wall overlooking Eden Gully (this is the obvious crack up right of the final belay on the photo topo in NW Rock). The crack gives excellent climbing - quite technical and physical, care is required with the rock at the top.
Easy ground leads up to the summit slopes of Mynydd Mawr.

Pete Harrison, Steve Long 31/Mar/2013.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.


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Route of Interest
Mr P's Last Great Problem

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Craig Y Cwmglas Bach)

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