UKC

2 pitches. Enjoyable, independent climbing bisecting Yellow Wall. Start to the right of the Yellow Groove block, where Blockhead begins.

1) 5c Follow a series of perfect slots up right, pulling through an overlap, to an easy ramp which is followed to a junction with Yellow Wall where it steps right at the roof. Cross the roof above an ancient snapped peg, at a slanting weakness, and then follow the narrow black groove, before stepping right to a pedestal stance shared with Yellow Wall.

2) 5b Place a runner in the crack above the belay (P2 of Fever), then step left to the the fine open groove. Climb up into the groove (another wire can be placed in Fever en route) and follow it to a good horizontal break. Hand traverse left and rock round the rib to gain Yellow Wall, finishing as for that route.

Neil Foster, Clare Reading (A/L) 28/May/2023.

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Route of Interest
Keel Haul

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))

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