Climbs 42
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces S

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Nurgling through the overlaps, pitch 2 © Tim Sparrow

Crag features

Originally described as 'a tiny crag', the Southern of the two cliffs at Craig Dinas is in fact over 45m (160') high.

The rock is compact rhyolite and in character,very similar to Carreg Alltrem just down the valley, giving very enjoyable climbing in low to mid grades, including some recently added routes as well as those in the Meirionydd guide..

The centre of the South (Main) Cliff is occupied by a massive pillar ('The Boulder') with the 'Gulls nest crack' on its left and a large overhang/cave to the right.

Approach notes

Lies above the Silver Fountain hotel on the A5 about 1.5mi from Betws y Coed. Park in the large 'National Trust' layby in the quarried area alongside the A5, North of Conwy Falls at SH808537.

Walk via the 'Silver fountain carpark to the public footpath heading North.

A large scree fan betwen the two cliffs is crossed by a faint path but BEWARE - in summer the vegetation takes over and a machete, native guide and sense of adventure may be needed. Approach is upwards of 15 minutes depending on vegetation.

Descent can also be interesting - the top of the climbs is a gorse and heather plateau, with descent down through the broad steep gully separating the two cliffs.  

A Crag clean-up day in September 2017 has helped with these issues (including some in-situ Abseil points) and hopefully there will be a much needed and deserved increase in traffic. 

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 6 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.

Updated June 2021 :- The restriction has been lifted for 2021. 


Out of print:
Meirionnydd (2002)
The start of the faint path up to the LH side of the S crag is marked by a cairn atop a large boulder. Don't strike up the bracken & scree directly before this, as it's a nightmare.
Rob Davies - 22/Apr/18
The house sized block 300 m west of main crag?? Well, the A5 is 200 m west of the main crag and 100m west of that is nothing just steep fields and woods down to the Afon Conwy. The mention of pockets suggests the post may refer to a different crag entirely?
Mike Hammill - 03/Jul/15
This Crag is also in the Meirionnydd guide.....
amazingdave - 01/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Ron Rees Davies

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