Originally described as 'a tiny crag', the South Cliff at Craig Dinas is in fact over 45m (160') high.
The rock is compact rhyolite, similar in character to Carreg Alltrem just down the valley. It gives very enjoyable climbing in low to mid grades with numerous recent routes in addition to those in the Meirionydd guide.
The main buttress, the South Cliff, is flanked by two smaller ones: the North Cliff and Top Buttress. In the centre of the South Cliff a massive pillar, 'The Boulder', leans against the crag. It is bounded on its left by 'Gull's Nest Crack' and on its right by a large chimney/cave. Right of the cave are overhung slabs then an arete where the crag base drops down to the foot of 'Black Wall'. Top Buttress lies above and right of Black Wall up a vegetated gully with a sketchy descent path.
The crag lies above the Silver Fountain hotel on the A5 about 1.5 miles from Betws y Coed. Park in the large 'National Trust' layby in the quarried area (SH808537) alongside the A5 just south of the Silver Fountain and north of Conwy Falls.
Walk via the Silver Fountain carpark to the public footpath heading North. When below the gap between the North and South Cliffs a faint path branches off right up overgrown scree and boulders to a cairn. The North Buttress requires bushwhacking from here. The track continues rightwards to the foot of the South Cliff. Following the cliff base leads to Black Wall from where a gully can be acended to Top Buttress. BEWARE - in summer the vegetation takes over and a machete, native guide and sense of adventure may be needed. Approach is upwards of 15 minutes depending on vegetation.
Descent can also be interesting - the top of the climbs is a gorse and heather plateau, with descent either down through the broad steep gully separating the two cliffs or the gully between Black Wall and Top Buttress.
A crag clean-up day in September 2017 helped with these issues by providing some in-situ abseil points e.g. at the top of The Nurgler. Another was added when Black Wall was developed. Hopefully these will encourage a deserved increase in traffic.