Restricted Access
A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the following routes:
Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).
Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:
- Tell Your God To Ready For Blood
- Chosstokovitch
- Error Of Judgement
Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.
Climb the groove to its top and step right to the arête, (Blue Dragon Cams). Move up steeply to the next roof via a thin crack, traverse left a couple of metres and move up to a resting position on shattered holds. Boldly traverse right and climb to the next roof on rust coloured blobs. (Medium cams out left at foot level). A bold and difficult traverse left leads to good holds, pull strenuously over the roof to a resting position on big holds in black rock. (Good wires). Step left and climb up to a rust coloured quartz band, traverse right and step up into an overhanging groove, (peg out left). Climb the groove, (good medium cams), until it is possible to pull out left onto the headwall to an easier finish.
First Ascent: Stevie Haston (exact date to be confirmed)
Stevie Haston.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Doris
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The Trumpet Slappers
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Esgair Maen Gwyn (Scimitar Ridge))