UKC

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

40m. Climb the wall right of Cripple Creek. Starting up a clean cut right facing corner at the far right of the Stigmata Buttress ledge. Step right off the ledge and get established in the groove. Climb to a ledge at 5m. Climb the wall above passing 3 in situ pegs to a small ledge at the apex of the wall. Step left and climb the crumbling wall passing a small overlap to a good horizontal break, teeter rightwards around the arĂȘte onto the slab and so the top.

N Bullock, G Desroy 02/Sep/2010.

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
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Route of Interest
Lord of the Flies

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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