UKC

The rib start has fallen down, best gained from the brown wall trending left to gain the break.

(The above warning was submitted in October 2015)

See feedback below re the alternative starts.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively.
Show beta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Doris

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ten Degrees North

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Mot)

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