The rib start has fallen down, best gained from the brown wall trending left to gain the break.
(The above warning was submitted in October 2015)
See feedback below re the alternative starts.
(The above warning was submitted in October 2015)
See feedback below re the alternative starts.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 6 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively. |
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Route of Interest
Ten Degrees North
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Mot)