Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

40m. An intimidating route with a big reputation. Start at the right side of a shattered pillar. Grovel up the pillar to a standing position at its top. Arrange protection, (two tied off pegs and a medium cam) summon up the courage and harden your resolve to launch up the overhanging, decomposing wall above. (2 more pegs and a small cam en route). After ten terrifying metres a slim groove may be reached offering a good but difficult to place cam at Its base. Balance up the groove to reach crunchy quartz plates leading to a half height ledge. (The Psychiatrist’s couch)! Offload your innermost feelings, tiptoe out right into the centre of the golden crusty wall and place as many micro cams as you can muster (3 or 4 hard to place) in a high thin break. After a second session on the couch to focus your mind, sprint up snappy crimps and pockets to a good break and medium cams. Above lies a strange bulbous feature which is probably the best hold on the route, ignoring the weight of the ropes pull hard on this to reach small crimps and finish as you started by grovelling on to the top not forgetting to wipe the foam from your mouth!

Stevie Haston 2004.


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Route of Interest
Cool Runnings

Grade: E8 6c ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)

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