25m.
The hanging arête on the right side of the clean white wall, above the boulders and grass ledges, between the pinnacles at the start of Pysgodyn Aur, and the crazy overhanging crack (with a massive nest at its base) of Chosstokovitch.
Best approached by abseil, although it is possible to carefully scramble to the base.
Start on the right side of the large, ivy covered ledge, beneath the short steep wall and the hanging arête. In-situ peg and large cam in pocket for belay (as for Sold Under Sin).
Climb the short steep wall to a large ledge. Pull into the overhanging, grey groove on the right. Climb the groove, good gear, to a large orange ledge. Stand-up on the ledge, (not as easy as it sounds). Move left, via a funky overhanging v-groove. The V-groove is climbed to its top, (where there is a good peg) using its sharp, left arête and holds on the face to the left. Tricky moves past a section of smooth, rounded, orange rock, reach a second peg and a good hold in a wobbly block. The third peg can be clipped from here as long as it is extended (you have been warned). Make pumpy and technical moves hard-right, bridging the bottomless groove (first crux) to establish yourself directly beneath the hanging arête. A couple of moves up, and a strenuous to place, nerve settling small wire, lead to more pumpy moves left, (second crux) to reach two good crimps, (one appears stuck on) that lead to the white wall above. Hand traverse right along the horizontal break to the arête, good gear. Climb the arête to the top, (bold but easy).
Best approached by abseil, although it is possible to carefully scramble to the base.
Start on the right side of the large, ivy covered ledge, beneath the short steep wall and the hanging arête. In-situ peg and large cam in pocket for belay (as for Sold Under Sin).
Climb the short steep wall to a large ledge. Pull into the overhanging, grey groove on the right. Climb the groove, good gear, to a large orange ledge. Stand-up on the ledge, (not as easy as it sounds). Move left, via a funky overhanging v-groove. The V-groove is climbed to its top, (where there is a good peg) using its sharp, left arête and holds on the face to the left. Tricky moves past a section of smooth, rounded, orange rock, reach a second peg and a good hold in a wobbly block. The third peg can be clipped from here as long as it is extended (you have been warned). Make pumpy and technical moves hard-right, bridging the bottomless groove (first crux) to establish yourself directly beneath the hanging arête. A couple of moves up, and a strenuous to place, nerve settling small wire, lead to more pumpy moves left, (second crux) to reach two good crimps, (one appears stuck on) that lead to the white wall above. Hand traverse right along the horizontal break to the arête, good gear. Climb the arête to the top, (bold but easy).
Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt 26/Aug/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nick Bullock | 27 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The third peg, that protects the crux, needs extending so it can be clipped from the big hold in the wobbly block. The lower pegs can be clipped as normal and don't require tying-off. All pegs are OK, the first of the three being the best. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The third peg, that protects the crux, needs extending so it can be clipped from the big hold in the wobbly block. The lower pegs can be clipped as normal and don't require tying-off. All pegs are OK, the first of the three being the best. |
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Route of Interest
Heart of Stone
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)