Climbs 177
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 93m a.s.l
Faces S

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Pete Robins attempting Psyche and Burn (E6) Tremadog © Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The crag that is always warm and often dry when clouds hang over the Llanberis Pass a few miles away. Many quality routes, mostly HVS and harder, apart from the classic Poor Man's Peuterey.

Bird Restrictions: As per RAD, the routes Gothic Grooves and Raven's Nest Wall (on Hogmanay Buttress) are to be avoided 1 Feb - 31 May. Due to nesting ravens.

Approach notes

Often hard to identify routes from the road due to trees. Walk off the top rather than abseiling, to save the trees.

No Access Issues

The BMC has formed a management partnership with the owners of Craig Pant Ifan, permitting a continuation of access for climbers and protecting conservation interests. Previously, the 16.8 ha broadleaved woodland of Crag Pant Ifan had been managed as a National Nature Reserve, by the Countryside Council of Wales under a long lease with the previous owners. The BMC have also been working closely with Natural Resources Wales to ennsure the access paths remain in good condition, as this  will contribute towards conserving the valuable ecological features of the site, in particular to help protect the nationally scarce Rock Stonecrop that grow alongside the approach paths. Although no longer a National Nature Reserve the whole area remains a Site of Special Scientific Interest and has considerable conservation value. No new route cleaning or vegetation clearance should be undertaken without prior approval. Natural Resources Wales will continue to own the remaining part of the National Nature Reserve – called Craig y Dre. No climbing activity is authorised  or currently recorded at the Craig y Dre site which is directly behind Tremadog Village. 

Update January 2022 -There has been some significant storm damage and a number of trees uprooted on the descent gully. Please excercise great caution when using the main decent gully in its current state. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

A pair of ravens have occasionally nesting half way up Gothic Grooves. Note these are big birds and not friendly, so avoid that route and the aptly name Raven's Nest Wall between Feb 1st. and the end of May.

don't try to walk off to the right looking up. chest high brambles and no path. no path to the left from falcon/vulcan area so abseil is the only viable option for descent.
rurp - 16/Oct/12
DO NOT abseil off if possible/practical. It's lazy, antisocial and erodes the trees.
victim of mathematics - 03/Sep/12
abseil off if possible to prevent erosion of the paths
cankerblossom - 02/Sep/12
I don't believe this is Dolerite. More likely to be Micro-gabbro with Mica schist at the base. Dolerite is a term over used in outdated surveys.
Ian Jones - 23/Nov/10
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