UKC

Rockfax Description
This is a scramble for those looking for an adventure. The scrambling is hard and often loose, ropes and a rack are essential and rock shoes are advised to the top of the first pinnacle.
1) 20m. Move up and right on broken ground until a traverse leads back left to a ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Head up right to the next ledge and shuffle to its right end. Move around the rib below a bulge to gain a steep corner overlooking the gully with a big crack in its left wall.
3) 25m. Climb up the right wall until forced back left to the top of the crack on the left wall. A struggle then follows to gain the top of the plinth - the hardest moves on the route.
4) 15m. More exposed climbing leads up to easier terrain and on to the top of the first main pinnacle. Above here the route is more of a scramble.
5) From the pinnacle, descend to the col and move around right under the next tiny pinnacle to reach a short cliff.
6) Climb the step via a groove that leads right to overlook the gully.
7) The climbing eases for a while until you reach a steep wall higher up. This provides the final difficulty before more amenable scrambling (at around grade 1) leads to the top of the second main pinnacle.
8) Descend from the main pinnacle, passing over two smaller pinnacles to a grassy col. The ridge above is much more broken and generally about grade 1 until the final short wall.
9) A short knife-edge ridge leads to a second grassy col and more broken ground up to the summit plateau.
Descent - Take in the summit of Mynydd Mawr or gain the path that leads to its summit and turn right and walk back down along the broad grassy ridge with stunning views back at Snowdon. At the end of the ridge, veer right down the prominent path to regain the forest boundary you followed on the approach and retrace you steps to the car. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pinnacle ridge takes the most visible ridge line from the walk in. It starts 50m below and left of Sentries Ridge. The first couple of pitches provide the meat of the route with much heathery scrambling above. As with other routes on the crag, there is a great amount of loose rock.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
marcusdanger 3 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose and not easy to find worthwhile gear placements.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose and not easy to find worthwhile gear placements.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Bera

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High HVD
Mid HVD
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High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
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High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Digitalis Direct/Pinnacle Ridge Route

Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))

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