UKC

150m, 7 pitches. Between Helmand Province and Right Fork on Craig Dafydd there is a left slanting ramp that leads into the bay above the first pitch of Right Fork. Follow this ramp for 30m into the bay. The route then climbs over easy ground rightwards towards a series of corners, turfy ledges and chimneys, 20m. On pitch three climb over a series of steps towards a small pillar, by pass this on the left via a chimney and then belay beneath a steep groove (20). Pitch four. Step left and climb steeply up via ledges to belay in a wide slot (The tank slot). Pitch five, step right and climb a wall via a crack with hooks and torques onto a ledge and snowy bay, climb out the back of this with a steep pull and belay. Two pitches of easy ground drifting rightwards or moving together lead to the top.

Please see write up below of our day out in memory of Andy Nisbet.

https://deathzone.7thwave.io/cgi-bin/renderpost.py?postid=307

Paul Winder and Jeremy Windsor 07/Feb/2019.

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Route of Interest
South Gully

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr))

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