UKC

Restricted Access

Parts of Craig y Don (as listed on UKC) have access restrictions:

Craig y Don - Lower and Middle
BMC RAD entry for Lower Craig y Don (inc. Craig y Don Middle)

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 15 August.
Reason: Nesting Birds (Kittiwakes, which tend to be late nesters).

These restrictions do not apply to the DWS routes listed on this page, Ledgend (provided the boat approach is used) and The Tide is High (But I'm Holding On) rightward to the Don Side Beach routes, i.e. including The Heel Hook Look. All these routes start and finish well to the right of the nesting areas.

Other areas listed here

No restrictions.

See BMC RAD entries for:

More than just a bail-out from the The Heel Hook Look, this still goes most of the way. Finish upwards after the long move into the right side of the big white scoop. Shown going up much too far right in the current guidebook - this is the line of Small Town Boy.

FA. Cailean Harker 2014.

Ticklists

North Wales DWS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed Booth 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: this basically does the long hard move around blunt arete(which forms the right side of white cave scoop feature) to set of holds , and then straight up from there . Heel hook look does another powerful moves left along the break to a hole in the break more or less above the middle of the white scoop cave feature. Then up, and the headwall looks the same standard. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this basically does the long hard move around blunt arete(which forms the right side of white cave scoop feature) to set of holds , and then straight up from there . Heel hook look does another powerful moves left along the break to a hole in the break more or less above the middle of the white scoop cave feature. Then up, and the headwall looks the same standard.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Don

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
North Wales Limestone Cover
North Wales Limestone (2023)
On Sight Publishing
By Andy Boorman & Ian Carr
Guidebook correction for this climb
1 users have this on their wishlist

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Route of Interest
Shining The Light

Grade: 7c ***
(The Diamond)

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