Bold wall climbing with some crack pitches interspersed; single and multi-pitch routes up to 70m in length. Sunny aspect, but seriously dirty with lichen, moss, and grass. Best to climb something you are happy to clean on lead, and/ or, abseil down your intended route and give it a good scrub, and/ or wait until you hear a route is clean and join the band wagon (don't rush there wont be a queue!). Gabbro levels of friction in places.
Fantastic collection of boulder problems close to the road.
The crag lies above the woods next to the A498 at the north-eastern end of Llyn Dinas. Park in a lay-by on either side of the road directly below the crag. Head through the old gate and pick a way straight uphill towards the crag.
The Voie Normale boulder can be seen from the road not far from to the parking.