UKC

Climbs 20
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces S

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Craig y Tonnau Crag of the Waves © moelfras

Crag features

 Some of the lines and descriptions in Rockfax are wrong, read the comments on individual routes. 

A pleasant small crag, with unusual rock, a marine deposit of volcanic ash. The South aspect, low altitude and shelter from the forest can make climbing viable here when the mountain crags are impossible-the same features make it ideal for midges however, avoid the crag on still days!
Many of the routes are overgraded in the CC guide, in particular Dentist's Slab is easy V Diff (perhaps only Diff), and Brewer's Troupe is Very Severe 4c. Some of the Severes (especially Robbin's Nest) would only get V Diff on other crags in the guidebook.
The less-than-vertical, well featured rock makes this a climb-anywhere crag, leading to quite a few claims for new routes (here and elsewhere). Do not be disappointed if yours does not appear here, especially if it was climbed after 2005.

Approach notes

Situated in a private forest; Commercial harvesting during the week is occurring at the moment (April 2017), small parties at weekends are acceptable to the owner.

The descent descent to the crag from the ridge at the west end is getting eroded and can be muddy, an easier-angled approach can be made from the east end of the crag-easier to find when leaving! Move out of the power line firebreak here
http://gridreferencefinder.com/?gr=SH7004251931%7CPoint_s_A%7C0&z=18&v=h&t=Point_s_A
and go across to here
http://gridreferencefinder.com/?gr=SH7001951893%7CPoint_s_B%7C0&z=18&v=h&t=Point_s_B

Rather than following the firebreak (rough, overgrown, wet, c35 mins), much easier to follow the track a little further until it rejoins the power line, turning left at a small pile of rocks and crossing the ridge before dropping down (15 mins).

Restricted Access

Located on private land - there are signs suggesting that access is not allowed but it is belived that these signs are left over from when contractors were carrying out substantial felling and other forestry works in the area in 2018. There are no recent reports of access issues. 

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