Climbs 20
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces S

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Craig y Tonnau Crag of the Waves © moelfras

Crag features

 Some of the lines and descriptions in Rockfax are wrong, read the comments on individual routes. Apart from the crack lines because of the density of climbs, the line after the start of many climbs is unclear. This is especailly true on the left of the crag.

A pleasant small crag, with unusual rock, a marine deposit of volcanic ash. The South aspect, low altitude and shelter from the forest can make climbing viable here when the mountain crags are impossible-the same features make it ideal for midges however, avoid the crag on still days!
Many of the routes are overgraded in the CC guide, in particular Dentist's Slab is easy V Diff (perhaps only Diff), and Brewer's Troupe is Very Severe 4c. Some of the Severes (especially Robbin's Nest) would only get V Diff on other crags in the guidebook.
The less-than-vertical, well featured rock makes this a climb-anywhere crag, leading to quite a few claims for new routes (here and elsewhere). Do not be disappointed if yours does not appear here, especially if it was climbed after 2005.

Approach notes

Situated in a private forest; Commercial harvesting during the week is occurring at the moment (April 2017), small parties at weekends are acceptable to the owner.

The descent descent to the crag from the ridge at the west end is getting eroded and can be muddy, an easier-angled approach can be made from the east end of the crag-easier to find when leaving! Move out of the power line firebreak here
and go across to here

Rather than following the firebreak (rough, overgrown, wet, c35 mins), much easier to follow the track a little further until it rejoins the power line, turning left at a small pile of rocks and crossing the ridge before dropping down (15 mins).

Restricted Access

Located on private land - there are signs suggesting that access is not allowed but it is belived that these signs are left over from when contractors were carrying out substantial felling and other forestry works in the area in 2018. There are no recent reports of access issues. 

The 2023 rockfax NW Climbs guide has updated the routes to be correct and added a better approach desciption.
Yestoadventure - 16/Jun/23
Agree with comments above about reaching the crag. CC guide description is to be ignored also. Just to clarify - follow the track past the overhead cables and firebreak at 5 minutes. Continue on track for another 5 min to reach a small quarry on the left. The cairn mentioned above is about 100 m further on the left. The path to the crag goes through a small col beyond the overhead cables. These are some of the best single pitch routes I've ever done. The crag is like a mini Mt Arapiles with very steep and juggy rock. Pro is good on the routes we did. I have no idea why no stars are awarded in the CC guide and why those who've recorded ascents on ukc have voted in such a miserly way.
Rog Wilko - 25/Jul/17
Beware the 2013 Rockfax descriptions of this crag! To start with, the parking is described as about 100m after driving through the farm, but it's more like 800m. This had us parking (wrongly) by a white house on the hill and crossing boggy ground to reach the fire break. Continue past this house to a much better parking spot. Rockfax will also have you following the entire boggy fire break to get to the crag - ignore this and follow the good track all the way up until level with the crag, then break off left through the forest for 50m or so. We've constructed a cairn by the side of the track to show where to turn off. Finally, some of the route descriptions and lines on the topo are wrong - see individual route pages.
cdpuk - 07/Apr/15
Fun little crag, though the walk-in is pretty overgrown. Good grippy rock with lots of holds, but gear's pretty sparse.
MatthewV - 28/Jul/14
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