UKC

Climbs 56
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Samuel James-Louwerse on the finishing ridge of Outside Edge Route (VDiff) on Cwm Silyn © Alan James

Crag features

The best crag in this area, with a mountain feel. All multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. There is also an E4, for those interested. Notable for Outside Edge (V.Diff), Kirkus's Climb/Route (VS) and Jabberwocky (E2 5c).

Good slabby wall on the right with a steep wall of corners and overhangs and the left with some classic HVS to E2s on it.

Rockfall Warning at the top of Ordinary Route / Outside Edge Route. See BMC website https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cwm-silyn-rockfall-warning for more details. [Sept 14]

The main slab faces SW, but is shaded from the sun early in the season. In the summer the crag makes a great afternoon venue when you may well appreciate why Sunset Ledge got its name. The main slab dries quickly after rain, although there is some seepage towards its right hand side. It is exposed to any wind.

Approach notes

From Pen y Groes on the A487, follow signs to Llanllyfni, then towards Tan yr Allt. Ignore the first road on the right (Tal Garnedd). Instead, take the next right up an unmarked road parallel to a stream. Continue to the end of the surfaced road and park through the gate in the field - don't try and drive up the track to the crag. From here, a pleasant path leads gently up towards the two tarns (Llynnau Cwm Silyn). Skirt around these and tackle the scree up to the crag.

Access Advice

Rockfall Warning August 2020 

A significant rockfall occured in 2014, affecting the final pitches of the clasic roputes Outside Edge. A more recent rockfall in early August 2020, following a torrential thunderstorm has covered the lower pitches of Outside Edge route in a considerable amout of loose rock and debris. Climbing these routes now could be significantly more dangerous than they previously were, with huge loose blocks hanging over the upper parts of the route. The strong advice is to avoid this area and not to climb these routes in their curent state. 

Updated by UKC: 15th August, 2020

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn (2003)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

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