500m. Once upon a time there was a good climber. He became a teacher, had 3 daughters and that did for him as any sort of climber worth his salt. He hit the beer, I mean who wouldn't living here, and the belly grew, then one day he thought he would be clever, turn up early at the crag and steal a first ascent from his best mate who was delayed by Robbie Williams concert traffic (c**t). His mate didn't mind, as he was fat and slow and weak too, but he repeated it and both thought it a hymn to nature and they would one day write a peer-reviewed article about it: the perfect balance of postmodern blah with blah de blah blah blah, the paragon of scholarly blah de blah blah. They both hoped nobody would ever come and repeat this stellar adventure. In the end, they were both very happy, and if no-one ever came here, that would suit them both fine...

Stellar juggy lip traverse of the left roof. Start hard left at the leaning prop block in cave, reach back to jugs, then heel-hook and cross all the way along the lip to a rest of sorts at the double jug rail, then grab the jugs on the nose and mantle the corner, redpoint crux, bridging allowed.

Colin Lambton and John Watson Jun/2013.

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