UKC Logbook - 'Carnivore'

160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
160m. A classic route arcing rightwards across the top of Tunnel Wall, the first pitch is sustained and fairly serious with a long traverse. Either a competent second or a conscientious leader is recommended if the second is to avoid a close inspection of the grass slope below. The line described includes the Villain's Finish which gives a more balanced route. Start 10m right of the left end at a bulge below a right-trending weakness.
1. 45m 5b Pull over the bulge and trend right on good holds to a thread runner (easily missed). Now climb a tricky little wall and continue to a small ledge at the start of the traverse (peg and krab occasionally in situ for a back rope). Follow a descending line of weakness and continue to a point beneath the left end of a long ledge. Climb steeply onto this and walk right to a belay.
2. 20m 4b Climb the green, slabby scoop on the right to a ledge.
3. 20m 5a Climb ledges and a line of weakness to a right-slanting crack. Climb the crack to belay on a shelf beneath a black overhung recess.
4. 25m 5c Villain's Finish. Climb the recess and boldly layback the crack above to the base of a slim groove. Attain a standing position with difficulty and continue more easily to a ledge belay.
5. 50m Easier climbing to ledges and the top.
FA D.Whillans, D.Walker (Villain's Finish), Summer 1962 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Classic, although currently it is the least repeated Scottish Hard Rock route after Raven's Gully, and has been sadly almost forgotten and left on a sorry estate of a affairs. However, the climb is still possible but an open mind is advised.

J.Cunningham, M.Noon 1958 some aid. FFA E. Cleasby 1978.