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Climbs 1
Rocktype UNKNOWN

Faces SE

Crag features

The crag is undeveloped. No world class lines that jump out at you, but room for at least 6 more routes if someone local can make the time.

The main features are it's looseness (felt like 3 of every 4 holds you'd test would either wobble or come off in your hands), and the moss and dirt that renders many of the slabby holds on the lower sections unusable in slippy rock shoes. The crag would benefit from someone abbing in off one of the solid anchors and knocking the worst-offending bits of loose rock off, and gently cleaning a couple of the holds. The strata is such that when rock breaks off, it undercuts and forms tiny roofs rather than jugs. Like the rock is being deliberately unhelpful. A couple of sideways moves are sometimes needed to bypass these features.

There is about 200m of scattered buttreses, a Main Buttress on the left, approx 35m high and 50m wide, with broken-looking orange stained rock and what looks like a steepening at the headwall, topped by a tree or large bush (potential anchor). Two Pinnacles drop off the left side of this, A low pinnacle on the left, and a bigger Main Pinnacle that has a dead tree at the top that I wouldn't trust, but  luckily a useful slingable rock bollard for belaying.

Another good width but lower buttress about 100m to the right of this remains unexplored. Though from a distance it looks clean and slabby.

A small buttress the size of a double decker bus lies about 100m left of Main Buttress. Clean rock and an inviting potential route up a crack with a ledge at the halfway point.

Approach notes

Up through plantations on muddy roads. The crag is roughly marked on the landranger maps. Access subject to tree-felling activity. Park at Lochend, and it's about a 40min walk in, all uphill. The crag lies at the top of the current treeline (August 2017) about 200m north east of the obvious stream. The crag sits at the top of a very steep slope of scree, heather, bracken and brambles. Belaying at the base is a mite uncomfortable due to the uneven terrain and masses of vegetation.

There is a wonderful view of the North End of Loch Ness from both the top and bottom of the crag.

Restricted Access

Land is owned and operated by a logging company, access not always possible.

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