Rockfax Description
310m. The traditional route of the slabs. To the right of the grass ring of Cyclops is a grass ledge 15m up the slabs. Start from a grass base at a low point in the slabs.
1. 15m 4c Climb a delicate shallow crack-line to reach the left end of the ledge (technical crux).
2. 45m 4b Climb directly up the crack system above to gain a long corner. Climb this and pull out left to a stance under the main overlap.
3, 4. 90m 4b Climb the overlap using the cracked groove on the right and follow cracks to ledges. Step round a big flake and go up cracked slabs to a shallow gully containing a large pointed block. Continue up easy slabs leftwards to The Terrace.
5. 30m Scramble up leftwards to the right side of the upper slabs, passing under the crescent-shaped groove of Cyclops to below a mossy fault-line on its left.
6. 45m Climb the fault-line, gain the slabby rib above and follow this trending rightwards to a stance below a nose.
7, 8. 85m 4c,4b As for The Blue Max.
FA A.Fyffe, J.Grieve, 7 Jun 1969 © Rockfax
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Logie Head)