Rockfax Description
305m. Fine, sustained climbing. The crux is contrived but delightful. It breaks through the main overlap, some 70m up, at a gap with a rockfall scar. Scramble up the grass rake to a large block.
1. 40m 5a Climb the crack-line straight above the block over a difficult bulge. Continue up cracks and move right into a long corner.
2. 35m 5a Climb the corner to small ledges and go up to make a thin traverse right over a smooth slab to a stance under the main overlap.
3. 25m 4c Break through the overlap by a right traverse across the wall above the rockfall scar, then go up cracks.
4. 40m 5b Leave the line of Cyclops by a left traverse to below a huge diamond-shaped block in the next overlap. Climb the block by its right side to the upper bulge, step right and go over the bulge by a crack which twists back into the groove. Continue up the groove to belay on the rib; a superb well-protected pitch.
5. 40m Climb the rib, then go straight up the succeeding crack and corner to a roof, turned on the right by cracks leading to a small ledge. Go up walls on the left for 10m to a good ledge. Scramble up to the right edge of the upper slabs.
6. 40m 4c The most obvious feature is a big crescent-shaped groove (Cyclops). Turn it on the right by a smaller groove (or a wide V-groove round the right edge) to a union below short twin grooves. Climb the left-hand groove and continue slightly left by a short cleft to a ledge. Go slightly right, then back left and up to a grass stance below a nose.
7. 40m 4c Climb up just left of the nose to the base of the Quartz Corner. Climb the corner until it becomes vegetated, then exit onto its right rib. Continue up the rib to a stance below somewhat grassy grooves.
8. 45m 4b The grooves to reach broken ground.
FA B.W.Robertson, A.Fyffe, W.T.Wilkinson, 16-17 Sep 1967
FA J.Fraser & party (FFA), May 1975 © Rockfax

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Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

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