Rockfax Description
70m. The ultimate in Creag an Dubh Loch minimalist climbing that will stop everyone ticking the entire list of routes in this guide. Takes a line up the blank wall right of Slartibartfast. Start at the left side of a block on the terrace.
1. 20m 7a Climb the hairline crack (IMPs) to a poor shake-out where a cluster of uninspiring but potentially adequate micro-wires can be placed. A desperate sequence follows to reach a jug atop the wall. Move up onto a shelf on the right with small wires in a slot above to belay.
2. 20m 6a Climb the beautiful leaning groove above to a large flake block.
3. 30m 6a Take the short right-facing corner above and follow the line to a niche. Pull left onto a rib leading to the top.
FA J.Lines, S.Perry, 5 Aug 2016 © Rockfax

J Lines 2016.

Ticklists

Hardest Scottish Trad , Comprehensive E9+

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