Rockfax Description
130m. A groundbreaking route when climbed, taking a safe and natural line cleaving straight up the most impressive bit of cliff right of The Giant corner. Start below the line.
1. 30m 6b Climb a short crack, traverse right along a ledge into a groove which leads to a slab. Traverse left along this to regain the crack which leads to a break in the roof. The groove above leads to a hanging stance (peg above).
2. 30m 6a Step up and right to gain a subsidiary groove. Up this and go left to a crack which leads to a leaning wall. Step up left to a ledge (junction with Naked Ape). The short crack above leads to a hand traverse right into a groove and a belay at its top.
3. 35m 5a The short corner and a traverse line left along a slab, then down into the recess of Naked Ape, with the large detached block (possible abseil point).
4. 35m 5a Step back right and climb cracks to enter a groove leading to the grassy terrace. Scramble right.
FA M.Hamilton, R.Anderson, 24 Jul 1982 © Rockfax
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Creag an Dubh-loch)