Rockfax Description
200m. This fine natural line, giving the easiest way up the frontal face, is well protected and fairly quick to dry. It was considered the hardest route in the Cairngorms at the time. It uses the grassy recess right of the grassy mound above the foot of Central Gully, which leads up to a big crack system. At the lowest point of the frontal face is the big King Rat recess; start up left from this at a deep easy groove leading to an array of cracks.
1. 35m 4a Climb the groove, traverse left above a slab, then go up to belay below and left of the main crack.
2. 45m 4c Move up right and climb the wide crack (crux), or use the rib on the right before moving back left, and so to the recess above. Continue up the recess to belay near the top.
3. 25m 4c Climb the steep flake-corner on the left, move up to cracks and follow these to a stance.
4, 5. 95m 4c,4b Continue up the crack-line to easier ground.
FA J.R.Marshall, R.Marshall, R.Anderson, Nov 1959 © Rockfax

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