Rockfax Description
150m. This fine route, with a sustained but safe crux pitch, takes the conspicuous crack-line in the centre of the wall left of Vertigo Wall. Start at a big block in the gully, up from the true line of Vertigo Wall, where a grassy shelf leads up right.
1. 30m 5a Climb to a grassy bay below a left-
trending groove. Follow the left wall and rib of the groove to a ledge and a large perched block.
2. 35m 6a Step right and climb thin cracks in a groove to a ledge below a small square overhang. Up the thin right-hand crack into the sentry box, then step left and climb a crack to a ledge. Climb the corner-crack to a belay on the right.
3. 25m 5a The corner and the slabby groove above, exiting right at the top. Go up grass ledges to a large embedded flake.
4. 30m Move left around the corner and follow easy ledges left and back diagonally right to below the bulging headwall.
5. 30m 5b Go up right to a sloping ledge and climb the overhang, at its narrowest, to a right-
slanting groove. Climb a crack on its right.
FA P.Whillance, R.Anderson, 4 Sep 1982 © Rockfax
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mike barnard | 12 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would say the SMC description is better than Gary's, as straight up the wall is easier than stepping left - I tried both! We thought 5b for pitch 3, but better to ab off really. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Would say the SMC description is better than Gary's, as straight up the wall is easier than stepping left - I tried both! We thought 5b for pitch 3, but better to ab off really. |
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Red Death
Grade: E3 6b ***
(The Long Slough)