50m. A left-to-right traverse of the whole crag following the obvious break near the top, clipping bolts on existing routes. Start up “Tied Up” to its 4th bolt and then make steep moves on under-clings to join the high level break around “Turbine Charged”. From here, head rightwards on generally good holds in the break clipping bolts just above, with a pumpy crux around “Fleet Street”. Beyond “Twin Track” the climbing becomes easier along a ledge system (slightly crumbly in places) and you reach the double bolt lower-off of “The Bheaginning”. Lower off here (you will need at least a 60m rope to get down) or, for the full 100m tick, reverse the route (as per the first ascent, if your belayer doesn’t fancy following).

Dominic Oughton 06/Aug/2017.


North Coast 500


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