UKC

Climbs 26
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces N

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view from the upper crag © arose

Crag features

Creag Dubh na Caillich is a granite outcrop above Torlundy, clearly visible from the main road and approached in 20mins from the North Face Car Park. Several routes were climbed here by B McDermott and G Latter before the crag was abandoned to moss and the forest.  This crag was dry tooled on quietly for years before being developed by local climbers as a bolted dry tooling venue in 2020 with the first ascentionists permission.  The rock is high quality and while its full of cracks the crag is never dry due to the North facing aspect, the moss banks above and the forest.

While this has been bolted with drytooling in mind it may well serve local climbers who dont own cars for a bit of sport.  The crag required exstensive cleaning and can be pretty muddy around the base.  Old waterproofs and gardening gloves as standard!

Approach notes

 

Park at the North Face car park. Follow the track towards Ben Nevis but when the footpath cuts right (towards Ben Nevis) head uphill crossing the puggy line to arrive at an upper forestry road.  There are various mountainbike trails in the woods which are great to follow but please stay off the main track (Cackle) as mountainbikers can appear very suddenly!  Once on the upper forestry track follow it to a fire break that leads direct up to the middle of the crag.  The bottom of the firebreak is at NN 153764.

For the upper slab go rightwards along the base of the crag until a ramp leads back up and left to the base of the slab.  For Lost World buttress go leftwards past Main wall until you see an obvious overhang and left facing corner.

There is a lower off on a wee wall above the main crag to allow for abseiling in from above to set top ropes on the steeper lines.  It is left of the upper slab at GR NN 154 763.  A 20m ab will get you to the anchor on Firebreak.

*Please dont drive up to the crag even if you have a key and permit from the Forestry Commision.  The permits are issued for the section of road that leads from the North Face Car Park to the upper car park and not for the other sections of road.  It is a short walk from the main car park and there is very limited parking (and turning!) on the forest road below the crag.

 

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Climbs at this crag

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