UKC

Restricted Access

 WARNING - Currently Eagles are still prospecting and may use the crag so please avoid climbing on Creag Ghlas until further notice. I will update once I get the all clear from the raptor group. Thanks Martin 25/03/25

The Crag may have restrictions during nesting period each year(early February to late July)if schedule one birds in residence. Depending on weather when surveyors go out to check it is not always possible to verify a nesting attempt easily so if you do notice or disturb raptors on the crag please let myself or Mountaineering Scotland know as soon as possible and nothing has been posted on either this site or the Mountaineering Scotland site. Check Mountaineering Scotland website for more details.

*Remember that any disturbance of protected species can constitute reckless disturbance even if you didn't know it was there and can still therefore be prosecuted so be careful and back off at first signs of any protected bird species being disturbed and inform Mountaineering Scotland to update their website to help inform others. Local raptor study group do monitor known crags including climbing crags.

145m, 5 pitches. Start at the right hand side of the main Salamander slab.
1. 20m 4c Climb the crest of the rib to a ledge, past heather and follow a curving crack near the arete to a ledge. 2. 30m 5a Continue up the obvious right facing corner and move right at the top to belay near the edge. 3. 25m 4c Step up and right to the edge and climb grooves to a heathery finish left of a small tree, block belay. 4. 25m 5a Move up and left over heather to the bottom of a slab with a large thin flake at the bottom. Gain the slab at the right of the flake and follow an obvious vertical crack to escape into a right facing corner ledge, another step to large heathery glacis. 5. 45m 4b Climb the short cracked wall opposite, cross more heather and gain a left slanting groove, climb this via a crack then climb a prominent crack to the top. Alternatively after initial cracked wall follow a groove left along the top of the final wall to just below Salamander finish. This route was cleaned Oct 2012.

D Bathgate, RN Campbell Aug/1967.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Meridian

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Beinn Dearg)

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